
When a water heater stops working, a few simple checks can tell you a lot: whether every faucet is cold or just one, whether the breaker has tripped or the gas supply has stopped, whether there's water around the base, and whether the temperature setting has changed. Leave the rest to a licensed plumber. Don't relight a pilot, open a panel or touch the gas controls.
Deal with these before anything else.
Run the hot water at the kitchen sink, a bathroom sink and a shower. If only one of them runs cold, the water heater is probably fine, and the problem is that faucet or its valve: book plumbing repair. If every hot tap runs cold or lukewarm, keep going down this list.
A tank holds a set amount of hot water. Back-to-back showers, a load of laundry and the dishwasher can use it up, and the tank then needs time to heat a fresh supply. In January the water coming into the tank is much colder than in summer, so it takes longer to heat, and the hot water seems to run out sooner.
Give it a while without using any hot water, then try again. If the water never gets hot, or runs out much faster than it used to, there's a problem to have looked at.
Find the breaker labeled for the water heater in your electrical panel. A tripped breaker sits in the middle or in the off position. Switch it fully off, then back on, once.
A gas water heater burns fuel, so the home should have working carbon monoxide alarms. If yours has none, or you're not sure they work, book smoke and carbon monoxide detector installation.
If you can see the setting without opening anything, check whether it has been turned down, or set to a vacation mode, since you last had hot water. That alone can explain lukewarm water. Just look: on a gas heater the dial is part of the gas control, and on an electric heater the thermostats sit behind the panels, over live wiring. Tell the plumber what you saw.
Without touching any electrical parts or gas controls, look at:
A drip from a fitting on top may be a loose connection. Water coming from under the tank may be the tank itself. A plumber can tell which.
If water is coming out of the relief valve's pipe, the valve may be letting off pressure or heat. Never cap, plug or remove that pipe or the valve. Call a plumber.
Call if:
Book water heater repair and installation, and have your photo of the label ready.
It depends on the fuel, and for an electric heater on where you live. As of September 2026:
Repairing or replacing a water heater for pay is plumbing work, plus gas or electrical work. In Virginia it needs a tradesman license from DPOR, the Department of Professional and Occupational Regulation, or the supervision of someone who holds one (Va. Code § 54.1-1129, as of September 2026). A business that contracts a job worth more than $1,000 also needs a DPOR contractor license. You can look up a plumber's license for free on DPOR's License Lookup. This is general information, not legal advice; confirm with DPOR.
If the checks above didn't bring it back, book water heater repair and installation with an independent local Pro.
Last updated September 2026.
A gas water heater has a gas pipe with a shut-off valve running to it, and a vent pipe on top that carries its exhaust out of the house. An electric one has a heavy electrical cable and no vent. The label on the tank also says which fuel it uses.
Several carry over: whether every faucet is affected, whether the breaker or the gas supply is on, and whether anything is leaking. Many tankless units also show an error code on a small display, so write it down, with the model number, before you call.
Draining or flushing a tank means shutting off its power or gas and handling scalding water under pressure, so it's a job for a plumber. Ask at the next visit whether your heater needs it, and how often its manual says to do it.